Certification guide · 2027

Which textile certifications actually matter

18 certifications explained, from GOTS and OEKO-TEX to GRS, ISO 9001 and SA8000. Know which ones the law requires, which ones back a claim on your label, and what to ask your factory before you sign a production order.

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Rows of circular knitting machines on a knitting floor
Circular knitting floor
  • 18certifications explained, with what each one does not cover
  • 4legal requirements for selling clothing in the EU
  • 3questions to ask every factory before you order
  • 1rule: check the certificate number yourself
What brands get wrong

Certifications are not all created equal

Most textile certifications are voluntary: a factory can skip them and still produce legally. A few rules are mandatory for anything sold in the EU. Knowing the difference saves you from paying for labels you don’t need, and from the compliance gaps that can stop a shipment.

  • Check every certificate number online

    GOTS, OEKO-TEX, GRS and ISO certificates all have public databases. A PDF alone proves nothing: PDFs get edited and reused.

  • The scope matters as much as the logo

    A certificate covers named sites, processes and products. A factory can be certified for dyeing and not for sewing, or for one product group and not yours.

  • Some rules are law, not a choice

    Fibre labelling, product safety and REACH chemical limits apply to every garment sold in the EU, certified or not.

  • Certificates expire

    Most are audited every year. Ask for the valid-until date, not only the issue date.

Worker sorting finished garments on a packing line
Sorting finished pieces

Coming next: the EU’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) will bring a Digital Product Passport for textiles over the next few years. Certificates that already trace fibre and chemicals, such as GOTS, GRS and OEKO-TEX, make that paperwork much easier.

Law vs. choice

Mandatory vs. voluntary: a clear comparison

The rules every garment sold in the EU must meet, next to the certifications brands and factories choose. The first four apply whether or not your factory holds a single certificate.

Mandatory and voluntary textile requirements for the EU market
RequirementTypeWhat it coversWho checks it
Fibre composition labelling (EU 1007/2011)Legal requirementCorrect fibre names and percentages on every textile product sold in the EUMarket surveillance authorities (ASAE in Portugal)
General Product Safety Regulation (EU 2023/988)Legal requirementConsumer products must be safe, traceable and have a responsible operator in the EUMarket surveillance authorities
REACHLegal requirementRestricts hazardous chemicals in textiles placed on the EU marketNational enforcement authorities
CE markingLegal for PPE and medicalProtective clothing (PPE) and medical textiles only; regular fashion does not carry itNotified bodies
OEKO-TEX Standard 100VoluntaryTests every component of the finished article for harmful substancesOEKO-TEX member institutes
GOTSVoluntaryOrganic textiles across the whole chain, from fibre to finished garmentGOTS-approved certification bodies (e.g. Control Union)
GRSVoluntaryRecycled content claims across the whole chainTextile Exchange-approved certification bodies
ISO 9001VoluntaryQuality management: consistent processes and error controlAccredited ISO certification bodies
ISO 14001VoluntaryEnvironmental management at factory level: waste, water, energyAccredited ISO certification bodies
SA8000VoluntarySocial accountability: wages, hours, safety, freedom of associationSAAS-accredited certification bodies

General information for planning, not legal advice. Check the current text of each regulation for your product.

Before you order

3 questions to ask every factory about their certifications

Run through these every time, even with a factory you trust. It takes five minutes and protects every claim you print.

  1. 1

    Can I see the certificate number?

    GOTS, OEKO-TEX, GRS and ISO certificates all carry a unique number. Look it up in the issuing body’s public database (links in the list below). A factory that holds the certificate gives you the number without hesitation.

  2. 2

    What does the certificate cover?

    Ask whether it covers the step you are buying: knitting, dyeing, printing, sewing or the full chain, and your product group. “GOTS certified” does not mean your garment can carry the GOTS label: every step in its chain must be certified, and your order needs a transaction certificate.

  3. 3

    When was the last audit, and when does it expire?

    Most certificates are audited every year. Ask for the valid-until date and check it covers your production dates. A lapsed certificate is worth nothing on your label.

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The 18 certifications

What each certification covers, and what it doesn’t

Grouped by what they prove. Every card tells you where to check the certificate yourself.

Materials & product claims

Certifications that verify material and product claims

The standards behind the words on your hangtag: organic, recycled, responsible wool, tested for harmful substances.

Natural linen fabric in soft folds
Natural linen
  • GOTSGlobal Organic Textile Standard

    Voluntary

    The most credible standard for organic textiles. Covers the whole chain from fibre to finished garment, with chemical and social criteria. Two label grades: “organic” (at least 95% certified organic fibre) and “made with organic” (at least 70%).

    Watch out: Every processing step must be certified, and each order needs a transaction certificate.

    Check it: GOTS public database

  • OCSOrganic Content Standard

    Voluntary

    Tracks the amount of organic material in a product from farm to finished item. Useful for blends with partial organic content that don’t qualify for GOTS.

    Watch out: Chain of custody only: no chemical or social requirements, unlike GOTS.

    Check it: Textile Exchange certificate search

  • GRSGlobal Recycled Standard

    Voluntary

    Verifies recycled content through the chain and adds social, environmental and chemical criteria. Covers pre- and post-consumer material. The lighter RCS checks content only.

    Watch out: Products need at least 50% recycled content to carry the GRS label.

    Check it: Textile Exchange certificate search

  • RWSResponsible Wool Standard

    Voluntary

    Animal welfare and land management on sheep farms, with chain of custody through spinning, knitting and sewing. The basis for any credible responsible-wool claim on merino or wool knitwear.

    Watch out: Covers the wool fibre, not the rest of the garment.

    Check it: Textile Exchange certificate search

  • OEKO-TEX Standard 100Tested for harmful substances

    Voluntary

    Lab tests every component of the finished article (fabric, thread, buttons, labels) against a list of regulated and unregulated harmful substances. Four product classes, from baby articles to decoration material.

    Watch out: A safety label: it says nothing about organic or recycled fibre, or working conditions.

    Check it: OEKO-TEX Label Check

  • EU EcolabelEU Ecolabel for textile products

    Voluntary

    The EU’s official environmental label. Criteria on fibres, restricted chemicals, water and energy in production, and durability. Harder to get than OEKO-TEX, with strong institutional credibility.

    Watch out: Few garment makers hold it, so expect a smaller choice of factories.

    Check it: EU Ecolabel product catalogue

Factory, chemicals & environment

Certifications that verify how a factory treats chemicals and the environment

These certify the production site, not your product. They matter most in wet processing: dyeing, printing, washing and finishing.

Operator loading denim into an industrial wash machine
Wet processing: where chemical standards apply
  • STeP by OEKO-TEXSustainable Textile & Leather Production

    Voluntary

    Certifies the production site across six areas: chemical management, environmental performance, environmental management, occupational health and safety, social responsibility and quality management.

    Watch out: A site certificate: it doesn’t test your finished garment.

    Check it: OEKO-TEX Label Check

  • bluesignbluesign system

    Voluntary

    Controls chemicals and resource use at the input stage of wet processing: dyeing, printing, finishing. Most relevant for synthetic and performance fabrics.

    Watch out: Mostly held by mills and chemical suppliers, less often by sewing factories.

    Check it: bluesign finder

  • ISO 14001Environmental management system

    Voluntary

    How the factory manages waste, water, energy and emissions, with targets and yearly audits. Increasingly asked for by large retail buyers.

    Watch out: About how the site runs, not about your product.

    Check it: IAF CertSearch

  • Higg FEMHigg Facility Environmental Module

    Voluntary

    The factory environmental assessment from Cascale (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition): energy, water, waste and emissions, often verified by a third party. Larger brands use it to score suppliers.

    Watch out: An assessment score, not a certificate or a consumer label.

    Check it: Ask the factory for its verified FEM score

Quality, safety & law

Certifications that verify production quality and product safety

Standards that show a factory runs consistent processes, and rules your product must meet for the markets you sell into.

Hands checking the ribbed hem of a sweatshirt
Checking a ribbed hem
  • ISO 9001Quality management system

    Voluntary

    Documented processes for consistent output, error tracking and corrective action. One of the most useful things to ask a new supplier for.

    Watch out: Proves the system exists, not that every garment is perfect: you still need a QC plan.

    Check it: IAF CertSearch

  • REACHEU chemicals regulation

    Legal requirement

    Restricts substances of very high concern and specific chemicals, such as certain azo dyes and nickel in metal trims, in products placed on the EU market.

    Watch out: Not a certificate: a legal duty. Ask for test reports on dyed and treated fabrics and on trims.

    Check it: ECHA restriction list

  • CE markingProtective and medical textiles

    Legal for PPE

    Required for textiles classed as personal protective equipment (PPE Regulation) or medical devices, such as high-visibility workwear or protective gloves.

    Watch out: Regular fashion never carries CE marking: using it without a reason is itself a breach.

    Check it: EU NANDO database of notified bodies

  • UV Standard 801UV protection of textiles

    Voluntary

    Tests sun protection under real-use conditions: stretched, wet and worn. The basis for UPF or sun-protection claims on swimwear and sportswear.

    Watch out: Only needed if you make a UV claim.

    Check it: UV Standard 801

Social & labour

Certifications that verify fair labour and ethical production

How the people who make your clothes are treated: wages, working hours, safety and the right to organise.

Sample makers at their tables in a bright atelier
Sample makers at work
  • SA8000Social accountability standard

    Voluntary

    One of the strictest social standards: child and forced labour, health and safety, freedom of association, discrimination, working hours and pay. Audited by accredited bodies.

    Watch out: Certifies the site; subcontracted steps need their own checks.

    Check it: SAAS certified facilities

  • Fair WearFair Wear membership

    Voluntary

    A membership programme for brands, not a factory certificate. Members commit to improving conditions at their suppliers and are assessed every year. Strong reputation in European fashion.

    Watch out: The brand is the member: a factory can’t be “Fair Wear certified”.

    Check it: Fair Wear member list

  • Fairtrade TextileFairtrade Textile Standard

    Voluntary

    Fair wages, safe conditions and the right to organise along the textile chain, with audits by FLOCERT. More common in cotton farming than in garment making.

    Watch out: Fairtrade cotton is a different, farm-level label.

    Check it: FLOCERT customer search

  • NP 4469Portuguese social responsibility standard

    Voluntary

    Portugal’s national standard for social responsibility management systems, published by IPQ. Not textile-specific, but a sign of structured social management at a Portuguese company.

    Watch out: Little known outside Portugal: pair it with an international standard for export buyers.

    Check it: Ask for the certificate from an IPAC-accredited body

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From the PCF blog

Guides for brands working with certified factories

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FAQ

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